There are jewels that charm in daylight — and there are jewels that come alive after dark. Stephen Webster’s Fly By Night belongs unapologetically to the latter. Conceived 15 years ago, this collection has become a modern icon in Webster’s creative universe, carrying a charge of gothic elegance, otherworldly lightplay, and the restless movement of winged creatures that only reveal themselves when the world quiets.

In a career defined by fearless design, this is Webster at his most enigmatic — a collection that continues to seduce collectors with its blend of technical innovation, hidden symbolism, and dark romanticism.

From a Single Brooch to a Cult Collection

The origins of Fly By Night are deceptively simple. It began as a brooch — a delicate constellation of miniature bat-moths set among diamonds in a dreamlike forest. The design invited interpretation: was this a creature of folklore, a fleeting natural marvel, or an entirely imagined species? The answer was left deliberately open, allowing each wearer to write their own story.

Over the years, the motif escaped the confines of that first piece, spreading its wings into rings, pendants, bangles, earrings, and one spectacular Swarovski-adorned tiara. The tiara, created in 2014 for 175 debutantes attending the Vienna State Opera Ball, was a moment of pure creative theatre — a jewel unbound by convention, designed to crown a night of tradition with a shimmer of the unexpected.

The Symbolism of the Bat-Moth

Central to the Fly By Night identity is the bat-moth hybrid — an emblem of transformation, freedom, and the balance between light and shadow. In many cultures, bats represent intuition and transition, while moths are drawn irresistibly to light. In Webster’s hands, the two merge into a winged form that is both protective and enticing — an amulet for those unafraid of standing apart.

Set with White Mother of Pearl and Quartz Crystal Haze with White Diamond pavé, the design is a tribute nocturnal creatures of the darkest forest depths

Crystal Haze: An Innovation Reimagined

When Fly By Night debuted, Webster was already known for pushing the technical boundaries of fine jewellery. His Crystal Haze technique — developed in the mid-1990s — was a breakthrough in gemstone presentation. By placing a faceted quartz layer over a coloured gemstone, the surface became a lens, magnifying colour and creating a shifting, three-dimensional “haze” of light.

In Fly By Night, Crystal Haze is deployed to full effect:

• Black Opalescent Crystal Haze creates an inky, oil-slick depth.

• Mother of Pearl Crystal Haze radiates with soft lunar light.

• Pink Opal Crystal Haze lends a surreal glow that reads both modern and romantic.

Each variation transforms the bat-moth motif — the same design becomes dramatically different depending on the gemstone’s mood.

Black Opalescent Crystal Haze and Black Diamond pavé, inspired by nocturnal creatures of the night

The Jewels Themselves: Iconic Designs in Focus

The collection’s Large Cocktail Ring in white gold with Black Diamond pavé is an unapologetic statement piece, its crystalline surface reflecting every flicker of light in a room. By contrast, the Small Cocktail Ring in rose gold with Pink Opal Crystal Haze is quietly subversive — soft in hue, but edged with the collection’s thorny silhouette.

The Wing Pendant in white gold with Black Opalescent Crystal Haze offers a distilled version of the motif, perfect for layering or wearing alone as a talisman. The bangles curve around the wrist like a creature in flight, while the earrings — whether wing-shaped studs or elongated drop designs — move as if alive.

Set with Pink Opal Crystal Haze and White Diamond pavé, inspired by nocturnal creatures of the night

Cultural and Red-Carpet Appeal

For a collection steeped in nocturnal mystery, Fly By Night has been remarkably visible. Celebrities including Doja Cat, Amelia Dimoldenberg, Jennie Ruby Jane, Anya Taylor-Joy, and Stevie Nicks have all turned to it for high-profile moments. Each wears it differently — as high-drama performance jewellery, as a sly wink of rebellion on the red carpet, or as an intimate signature away from the cameras.

The Jewels Club Take

Stephen Webster has always been one of our favourites — a designer whose work has stayed firmly on our radar since we first visited him over 10 years ago at the Couture show in Las Vegas. Back then, it was clear he wasn’t simply creating jewellery; he was building entire worlds in precious metal and gemstones.

Fly By Night is a perfect example of why his designs endure. It’s not just about the striking silhouette or the technical brilliance of Crystal Haze — it’s the way Webster tells a story through every curve, wing, and stone choice. The bat-moth motif is more than a design flourish; it’s a character in a narrative that continues to evolve 15 years on.

For collectors, Fly By Night represents the best of Stephen Webster: bold, inventive, and deeply personal. For us at The Jewels Club, it’s a reminder of that first encounter in Vegas — proof that some creative voices only get stronger with time.

Fly By Night Pavé Collection

Discover More

Explore more of Fly By Night and the full women’s jewellery collections at stephenwebster.com.

Follow Stephen Webster on Instagram: @stephenwebsterjewellery.

Scroll down to see more pieces from the collection in the gallery below.