Dover Street Market's Summer Jewellery Market (open until 5 August 2025) brings together 36 emerging designers from across the UK, Europe, and the US, each selected for their distinctive approach to form, material and concept. Many are current students or recent graduates of leading institutions — including Central Saint Martins, Birmingham School of Jewellery, FIT New York, Goldsmiths, and design academies in Milan and Antwerp — while others are independent practitioners already forging unique paths beyond the traditional graduate route. The result is a wide-ranging cohort that reflects not only technical skill but a deep curiosity about what jewellery can mean today.

These aren’t polished debutantes waiting their turn. They’re jewellery rebels in the truest sense — disrupting tradition not for effect, but because their work insists on a different rhythm. Raw finishes, conceptual structures, and materials still in flux speak to a generation unbothered by polish. The point isn’t to fit into the industry — it’s to shape what comes next.

A deliberate invitation to discovery

Designers like Mass Lee, Megan Brown, Rosalie Carlier and Caitlin Murphy offer a broad visual language — from quietly minimal silversmithing to bold, sculptural abstraction. Others, including Miya Kumo, Iona Hindmarch Bisset and Ayesha Sureya, use jewellery as a form of cultural retrieval, bringing gender, memory and material together in experimental new ways. What unites them is not a shared aesthetic but a shared refusal to conform.

The exhibition is shaped in collaboration with leading art and craft institutions, chosen as much for their technical rigour as their embrace of risk. That balance — between formal discipline and creative disruption — is where the Jewellery Market finds its charge. These aren’t accessories. They’re artefacts in motion: proposals, provocations, and personal histories cast in metal.

Katherine Brunacci - Pebble Halo Ring - Available Online

Holly O'Hanlon Interrupted Pearl 06Yellow Gold - Available Online

Highlights we’re watching

Caitlin Murphy —  A third-generation Northern Irish silversmith whose folded, woven metal forms trace a path from paper sculpture to wearable object. Her work draws on early experiments with geometry and material transformation — turning soft into solid, flat into dimensional. There’s a sense of quiet structure in every piece, precise but never rigid. We’re drawn to how it holds tension: between control and fluidity, between object and adornment.

Caitlin Murphy is a third-generation Northern Irish silversmith whose folded, woven metal forms draw on geometry, paper models and optical illusion. Imagery: Courtesy of Dover Street Market

Alice Biolo — An Italian maker exploring themes of vulnerability, concealment and contradiction. Her work plays with dualities — pairing minimal outlines with tactile, volatile textures in metal. There’s a tension between the surfaces she shows and those she hides, often revealing delicate internal structures beneath smooth, architectural exteriors. Working in stainless steel, copper, silver and gold, she creates jewellery that reflects the push and pull of human behaviour: controlled on the outside, complex underneath.

Alice Biolo explores themes of insecurity and concealment through contrasts in form and material, working in stainless steel, copper, silver and gold.Imagery: Courtesy of Dover Street Market

Martina Kocianova — Trained at Central Saint Martins, Martina Kocianova blends technical precision with organic intuition. Drawing on Japanese metalwork techniques and the growth patterns of fungal ecosystems, her mycelium-metal hybrids challenge conventional ideas of preciousness and permanence. The pieces feel alive — rooted in natural systems but rendered in refined, wearable form. Her work invites a slower kind of looking, where surface and structure reveal themselves gradually.

Martina Kocianova blends traditional gem carving and stone setting with materials like mycelium, integrating foraged fungi into jewellery that sits between nature and craft. Imagery: Courtesy of Dover Street Market

Jet McQuiston — approaches jewellery through the lens of the miniature, shaped by years of collecting tiny objects and a belief that even the smallest forms can hold powerful stories. Her work draws inspiration from Byzantine, Georgian and Victorian traditions, weaving together narratives of people, species and environments through finely wrought pieces. She works in responsibly sourced materials—single-mine origin gold, vitreous enamel and repurposed or ethically mined gemstones—and holds a Master’s in Jewellery Design from Central Saint Martins. The result is jewellery that acts as a vessel for memory, each piece a carefully contained world of meaning.

Jet McQuiston transforms miniature forms into powerful vessels of meaning, using intricate hand engraving to layer text, memory and material into wearable relics. Imagery: Courtesy of Dover Street Market

Katherine Brunacci — creates jewellery that draws a line between the ancestral and the contemporary. Influenced by historical artefacts and the act of discovery itself, her work references mythology, relics and symbolic form. Using recycled metals — platinum, sterling silver, 9ct gold — and ethically sourced gemstones, she crafts pieces that feel both intentional and unearthed. There’s a sense of quiet storytelling in her designs, where material choices and visual language speak to origin, exploration and meaning beyond the surface.

Katherine Brunacci’s ring work draws on historical forms and artefacts, combining ethically sourced gemstones with recycled silver and gold for pieces rich in texture and meaning. Imagery: Courtesy of Dover Street Market

Genevieve Schwartz — creates fine jewellery featuring bicolour gemstones set in precious metals. Her work is shaped by Art History, Art Deco geometry, and Impressionist colour theory, with bold combinations of hue central to her design approach. There’s clarity in her forms and confidence in her palette — each piece designed with an acute sensitivity to light, balance and contrast. Schwartz’s jewellery feels deliberate and composed, but never clinical; it’s expressive design through a disciplined lens.

Genevieve Schwartz creates fine jewellery defined by sculptural form and strong contrasts, informed by Art Deco geometry and art historical references. Imagery: Courtesy of Dover Street Market

Beyond our in-depth picks, other compelling voices in the show include Holly O Hanlon, whose pearl transformations bring architectural precision to a classic material; Els Op De Beeck, whose Belgian-origin designs balance bold forms with emotional narrative through metal; and Emily Frances Barrett, who repurposes overlooked materials — pressed flowers, cigarette butts, ring pulls — into layered resin and silver pieces, reframing what we consider precious. Together, these designers underscore that Jewellery Market Summer Exhibition isn’t just showcasing jewellery — it’s spotlighting a generation asking: What even counts as jewellery now?

A confident new format for jewellery

This isn’t a side room. Jewellery has become one of DSM’s most influential departments—and this showcase cements that role. Since 2016, the store’s approach has blurred the line between gallery, fashion house and incubator. Jewellery Market is a continuation of that format: democratic, surprising, and unafraid to place student work next to six-figure pieces.

Importantly, it offers designers more than exposure. They get real data, real sales, and real contact with an audience that includes collectors, stylists, curators and press. It’s not simply a platform — it’s a test bed for possibility.

Ayesha Sureya - Kali Ring - Available Online

Amy Cushnaghan - Anne Frank House Ring - Available Online

The Jewels Club take

What makes Jewellery Market so effective is its refusal to dilute. These aren’t safe pieces. They’re assertive, unfinished, shifting — and that’s the point. The designers don’t present what’s expected. They ask what’s next.

Dover Street Market, for all its cult status, is doing something radical here: giving the floor to those still shaping their practice. In an industry that too often rewards certainty, this is an argument for flux — and for the power of ideas over reputation.

Discover more

Browse the full range — and shop online — via DSM London’s Jewellery Market page.

Follow @doverstreetmarketjewellery and selected designers on Instagram for updates and new work.

View the full collection of pieces from Jewellery Market on the DSML ESHOP.

Scroll the gallery below to see a selection of the designers and pieces we’ve been following.

Dover Street Market Store